Tension App FAQ
I am stuck in a login loop, how do I fix this?
Odds are there is a discrepancy or spelling mistake with your login information. You can try logging in with your username instead of your email address, but if that still doesn’t work, please email firstname.lastname@example.org and we can clean it up manually.
Why won’t my app finish synchronizing Climbs and setters?
This first data sync can take a few minutes, especially on older mobile devices. Please be patient as the app loads for the first time. There is a known issue with iPhone 6 models where the initial sync causes the app to crash. We will be continuing to work on solutions for old devices, but we cannot guarantee functionality on the iPhone 6. Please see the following links that detail which phone models Apple still supports.
Why won’t my Bluetooth connect?
Please make sure your Bluetooth is turned on and also ensure that the app has been given Bluetooth permission in your phone’s settings.
Why can’t I filter Playlists?
The Playlist feature is not meant to be filtered. Instead, you may reorganize the playlist in whatever order you like.
Can you edit boulders?
No, not yet but we are working on it.
Can I recover my logbook from the previous Tension Board app?
Yes! We imported all logbook data* from the old app. When opening the newly updated Tension Board app, choose the “Recover Old Account” option to reset your password and sync your logbook from the previous app.
* There is a tiny gap of about two days in the data between our import and the switch over to the new system. This will be filled in over the coming days.
Why does the default wall show hold sets that I do not have?
On first start-up, the Tension Board app creates a default wall with all hold sets. You can edit this wall, or create a new one, by tapping the stack icon in the top right corner and selecting “Wall Settings”.
Where did my “draft” climbs go?
“Draft” climbs were not meant to help with routesetting during a session and were not meant to be stored long term. These will not be uploaded into the new app.
Where did my project climbs go?
During the import we filtered out any climbs that had not been sent on any angle. Going forward, climbs will need to see an ascent within 30 days to remain in the database.
How does Skillscape™ work?
Skillscape™ uses AI to offer you personalized skill exercises. You can start using Skillscape™ when you have 10 climbs logged. We recommend logging at least 50 distinct boulders for Skillscape to have an accurate picture of you as a climber. Every node represents a climbing skill. Skills are arranged in a hierarchy from novice skills to elite skills, from left to right. Nodes with fewer connections are more specialized and harder to acquire. When you click on a node, Skillscape™ will recommend boulders for you to try in order to learn the skill.
Skillscape™ will also pick out two skills that it recommends you should learn- one skill that you have not acquired, but is recommended for you to learn. The other is one you have acquired, but it is recommended to improve your weakness.
Why do the recommended skills move all around?
The more boulders that you log, the better picture Skillscape™ will have of you as a climber. We recommend logging at least 50 boulders for Skillscape™ to create an accurate profile for you. The more climbs that you log, the more Skillscape™ learns about you, and the more accurate your profile will become. As you log ascents, you may acquire new skills and/or you may lose skills. This means that recommended goals for New Skill will change. Furthermore, as you “level up” on a weakness, your “Work My Weakness” goal may also change As you learn skills, your Skillscape will also automatically update with new skills.
Why does my Skillscape™ keep changing?
First, it’s important to understand that Skillscape™ changes based on new ascents that you log, but not every ascent you log leads to a change in acquired skills or the progress bar. All ascents have the potential to affect your Skillscape™, not only those that are recommended by Skillscape™. Note that repeats do not count toward acquiring skills but completing the mirror of a boulder you have already logged does count.
Second, it is important to realize that any given climb usually relies on several different skills. This means that when you log a climb that Skillscape™ recommends to you to work toward one specific skill (e.g., Intermediate 12), this climb may also affect your progress bar and acquisition of other skills (e.g., Novice 20 and Intermediate 1).
Third, Skillscape™ builds your profile based on volume and difficulty. It always reflects your relative strengths and weaknesses based on what you climb most. If you log many (for you) easier climbs, Skillscape™ will reflect this and you may lose other skills that are (for you) harder and for which you have not logged as many climbs.
Finally, keep in mind that as you log more and more ascents, Skillscape™ will learn your skill profile better and better. We recommend at least 50 ascents to get a reliable profile. If you are just starting out in the app and have not yet logged many climbs, Skillscape™ may change quite a bit with a single new ascent (i.e., several skill nodes may change simultaneously). As you log more ascents, your profile becomes more stable and you typically have to log several ascents to move your progress bar towards acquiring a new skill or to “level up” on a skill you already have.
What’s the best way to use skillscape?
Skillscape™ will pick out two skills that it recommends you should learn—one skill that you have not acquired, but is recommended for you to learn. The other is one you have acquired, but it is recommended to improve your weakness. We would recommend trying the skills/ boulders that Skillscape™ recommends to you, but you can also click on any node and Skillscape™ will recommend you boulders to improve upon that specific skill. You may also try to switch between “Level Up” and “New Skill” sessions—“Level Up” sessions help you consolidate your profile, while “New Skill” sessions help you expand your skillset.
As an Adv/Expert climber, why are all my novice skills unacquired?
Skillscape™ uses two things to build your profile—volume and intensity. So, if you have an un-acquired skill, but it is really close to being acquired, this means that you have not done enough volume of that particular skill. This is a relative measure. You can never acquire all skills: every skill profile has relative strengths and weaknesses. However, Skillscape™ does realize that the few boulders you have done in that style, were difficult boulders. This means that when you do acquire this skill (by logging enough volume) you will not start out at the Novice level and “work through the ranks”, but rather you will already start at a higher level which reflects the difficulty level of the climbs you have done in that style.
As an expert/advanced climber, you may not have logged many of the “easier” climbs for Skillscape™ to realize that you have enough volume to acquire the novice skills. Given that skills are arranged in a hierarchy, Skillscape™ knows that you will be able to successfully complete climbs that mostly rely on skills at the novice end of the spectrum.
What’s the difference between Limit Boulders, Volume Boulders, Level Up, and New Skills?
- Limit boulders match your skill profile (suit your style), but should feel relatively hard for you. These boulders should take you several attempts or even sessions to complete.
- Volume boulders match your skill profile (suit your style) but should feel relatively easy so that you should be able to do several of them in a given session.
- Level Up boulders target one of your weak spots. Those are climbs that rely on skills you have already acquired but are more difficult. Level Up boulders are drawn from Skillscape™—they are the same climbs you see in Skillscape™ when you tap on the large colored node.
- New Skill boulders are designed to expand your skill set. Those are boulders that target skills you have not acquired yet. New Skill boulders are drawn from Skillscape™—they are the same climbs you see in Skillscape™ when you tap on the large blank node.
Why do I only see boulders I have already done in my “Volume Boulders” and “Limit Boulder” lists?
The Limit & Volume Session features are not intended to push you out of your comfort zone in regards to skill acquisition — that is what Skillscape™ is for. So in these lists, you should find climbs that fit your style, many of which you may have already done. As you start to branch out through the New Skill and Level Up features, you will also start to see more boulders that you haven’t done in your Limit & Volume Session lists. We update the Limit & Volume Session lists every Friday so keep an eye out for those updates.
How does the “New Skill” and “Level Up” feature work?
New Skill and Level Up problems are drawn from Skillscape™. They are the same problem you see when you tap on the large white (New Skill) or large colored node (Level Up). As you complete those climbs, you should improve and expand your skill profile. Going into Skillscape™ itself is not strictly necessary unless you would like to work on specific skills.
Why do I not get recommendations for Small Input / Shallow Pinch / Sloper on the Train by Grip Type screen?
Skillscape will not recommend skills to you that are too far outside your comfort zone. All Small Incut, Sloper, and Shallow Pinch skills are part of the Advanced & Expert clusters. If all skills that you have acquired are in the Novice cluster, you will not see recommendations for under Train by Grip (My Profile) because there is no direct pathway. All those skills are more than one step away and hence considered too far outside your comfort zone.
Why do I not get any (or only a few) recommendations for certain skills? Why do I get strange climbs / projects / climbs that look off for certain skills?
The difficulty grades of your ability and the desired board angle have to do with the recommendations you get. If your average climbing ability is V2, Skillscape cannot give you recommendations for Expert skills on small incuts @30 (or steeper angles). There just aren’t any boulders on those grips, on such a steep angle, at that grade. For example, the average difficulty rating of climbs for skills in the Expert cluster is V6. For more information, check out the “Difficulty Range of Skillscape Skills” graph in the Science behind Skillscape article.