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6425 Washington Street #18
Denver, CO, 80229

wood climbing holds, training tools, climbing training plans

Flash Board

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Flash Board

Will Anglin

The hangboard you can take anywhere!

We developed the Flash Board out of frustration:

  • Hiking 5 miles to your project and having nothing to warm-up on? LAME.
  • Wearing out your skin warming up on small holds and then getting a split tip after trying your project twice? LAME.
  • Living in an apartment and you can’t put holes in the wall to mount a hangboard? LAME.
  • Having to travel for work and not being able to keep up with your hangboard workouts? LAME.
  • Getting stuck in repeated bouts of bad weather during an extended road trip and watching your peak finger strength slowly fade? LAME.

Forget that nonsense. Hangboard anywhere, warm-up anywhere, save your skin. Then crush your project. Done.


After taking my Flash Board climbing with me basically every single time I’ve gone climbing since we made the first prototype in the summer of 2016, I’m a believer (if I wasn’t a believer, we wouldn’t be making it). To help you get the most out of your Flash Board, here is some basic information on adjusting the angle of your board and using it to warm-up.

 

Adjusting the Flash Board

The Flash Board was made to be adjustable and reversible. On one side of the board, all the edges have a 90-degree edge radius. On the other side, all of the edge radii are 75-degrees (a little sharper). Why? The sharper edge radii make for a more natural half and full-crimp grip by giving the fingertips a little more room at the back of the hold. This better replicate the types of holds that suit the half and full-crimp grip positions. The edges with the 90-degree radius make for a more comfortable open hand grip and a more demanding half-crimp.

By passing the cord through the holes on one end of the board, you are able to adjust the angle of each grip. In-cut, flat, sloped, your choice.

 

Warming-up

This is probably my favorite use for the Flash Board. I take it out to the boulders with me all the time. Bring some extra cordalette and a carabiner and you can hang the board up pretty much anywhere...

Should we be more impressed with Tristan's front lever, or his friends' over-head press?

Should we be more impressed with Tristan's front lever, or his friends' over-head press?

You’ll probably want to tweak this warm-up based on your ability level and the specifics of the climb you are warming-up for, but this is a good place to start:

Grip

  • Sloper Jug = The whole top rail of the Flash Board
  • Large Edge = The 2 large shoulder-width edges. Grip type of your choice, though I'd recommend open-crimp or half-crimp.
  • Small Edge = The small shoulder-width edges. Grip type of your choice, though I'd recommend open-crimp or half-crimp.
  • Small Crimp = The small shoulder-width crimp slashes. Grip type of your choice, though I'd recommend half-crimp. 

Exercise

  • Scapular Pull-up = With only a slight bend in the elbows, keep your chest up and bring your body up by bringing your shoulder blades down and back.
  • Pull-up = Hanging from the board, keep your chest up and your shoulder blades down and back, use your arms to pull your body up so that your shoulders match height with your hands. Then lower yourself in a slow and controlled manner.
  • Knees to Chest = Hanging from the board, keep your chest up and your shoulder blades down and back. Maintain a slight bend in the elbows. Bend your legs and bring your knees up until they touch your chest. Lower them back down in a slow and controlled manner.
  • Hang = Hang from the grip of your choice. Keep your chest up and your shoulder blades down and back. Maintain a slight bend in the elbows.
    • Half Max Hang Time = Your "max hang time" is the longest amount of time you can hang from a given grip. Your "half max hang time" is half of your max hang time.

Volume

This is meant to be a warm-up, not a work-out. You may need to double or cut these exercise volumes in half depending on who you are.


Hangboard Workouts

Want to use your Flash Board for your hangboard workouts? Awesome! Here are 4 different training protocols to choose from: 

4 Fingerboard Strength Protocols That Work

 

You know you want one...

 

Now get out there and CRUSH!